HP Compaq d530 PSU Repair > How to remove the PSU from a d530 SFF PC
Got the replacement for 308439-001 or 308617-001? Read on to find out how to remove and replace it.
Power Supply Unit Removal
Although the PC has been designed to be mostly tooless when it comes to basic servicing, HP has made it overly difficult to remove and replace proprietary components such as the PSU. HP have made the assumption that the PSU should almost never fail, whilst the motherboard is designed to be easily replaced if it ever does fail. More often than not, the reverse is true - the PSU has a fail rate at least 10 times that of the motherboard!
If you follow these instructions, you will save yourself a lot of hassle trying to figure it out yourself. At most, only about 5 screws need removing. This method also is the least complex, and will take about ten minutes.
Before you start, make sure you have a TORX screwdriver bit that will fit the screws on the back of the d530 PC. You may also need scissors or side cutters to cut a cable tie or two. Other than that, additional tools are not required.
Removal instructions
| Step 1 | Position the d530 PC on a work bench so that the back is facing you. |  |
| Step 2 | Open and remove the lid (hood) |  |
| Step 3 | Remove the front plastic cover (the three clips hold it in place). Remove the PCI riser backplane card. |  |
| Step 4 | Using a TORX (star) screwdriver bit, remove the screws from the back of the PC. This includes the uppermost left and right, the one at the power supply, and also the ones securing the hood lock. The hood lock uses security TORX screws (they have a centre post), whilst the rest of the screws can be removed using either a torx bit or a flat blade screwdriver. You can opt not to remove the hood lock, if you're careful enough when removing the panel so as not to foul the hood lock PCB onto the side of the casing. |    |
| Step 5 | Lift up drive tray |  |
| Step 6 | Slide the motherboard out to clear the back panel, by lifting the green release catch and pushing the motherboard back about two centimeters so it lies loose (otherwise the back panel cannot be removed in the next step). |  |
| Step 7 | Carefully pull the top of the back panel away. Once it has reached an angle of about 20 degrees, the bottom can be pulled out. Be careful not to damage the copper clips (they help create good electrical contact). |    |
| Step 8 | Remove the black tamper switch (the one with the red and black wires; the switch is above the power supply unit, next to the speaker). |  |
| Step 9 | Lift the motherboard up on the left side, and rest it on the side of the case. The other side of the motherboard can rest on the cutouts on the bottom of the case, which will stop the board sliding back down. Try not to lift the motherboard by the centrifugal fan, otherwise you will put excessive strain on the CPU heatsink bracket, which can break. |  |
| Step 10 | Disconnect the 20-pin ATX, 4-pin 12V and the 2-pin 'Fan Command' cables from the motherboard. |   |
| Step 11 | The power supply can now be partially removed by sliding it out. |  |
| Step 12 | Wiring looms are tied with zip-lock cable ties. On some models, the zip-lock fastener includes a tab, which can be used to release the lock, allowing the cable tie to be opened and re-used later. |  |
| Step 13 | Untangle the power supply wires from the other looms. Remove the power supply. |  |
Re-installation of the replacement
Once you have your replacement unit, re-installation is the reverse of the above. Be certain that none of the wires get poked into the fan grille of the PSU. If the PSU fan is jammed, it will overheat and blow up again!